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Where Fumes Meet Perfumes: A Pyongyang Secret

from: Portrait Image of Person Jun-seokJun-seok    to: Portrait Image of Person Seung-minSeung-min    Marker Icon for the Link to the Citymap
A person is positioned in an expansive, dimly lit gallery space where they are hanging large, vibrant art pieces on concrete walls. The art includes abstract designs and a striking portrait of a person with their head tilted back, sporting white hair and a red coat. The gallery features a series of similarly bold and colorful artworks along the walls in the background, illuminated by overhead lights. The floor is a polished concrete, reflecting the muted lighting. The scene conveys a sense of preparation for an exhibition.


Dear Seung-min,

Remember how I told you Pyongyang is full of secrets, if you only know where to look?
Today I found a new one. A parking garage.

Yes. A parking garage.
In a city where no one owns a car.

Five empty levels, concrete echoing like a cathedral. I went in because I thought I heard music—like distant jazz, bouncing off the pillars. But instead, I found walls covered in photographs.

Huge prints. Some surreal—eyes floating in clouds. Some abstract—just color and light, like memories half-remembered. Others so intimate, I felt like I was eavesdropping on someone’s soul.

On the third level, a man was pasting up a new piece—a woman’s face layered with neon calligraphy. We started talking. Turns out, he’s a photographer. And once a year, he and his friends turn this forgotten place into a secret gallery.

“It’s perfect,” he said. “No one comes here. No cars. No accidents. No accidental visitors. Only the ones who know.”

I asked why they do it. He shrugged.
“Because some art doesn’t belong on official walls.”

He invited me to their opening this Friday. Drinks. Music. Art that might vanish the next day. I told him I’d bring a friend—but of course, I can’t. Not officially. Maybe only you, if you ever manage to slip past the border guards disguised as a cultural delegate.

So, cousin: If you ever hear jazz drifting out of a parking garage in Pyongyang… follow it. I’ll be waiting there to show you the invisible city again.

No tickets needed.

Your guide (and conspirator),

Jun-seok

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